November 21, 2008
Philly, Day 1: Gelato Night at Capogiro
Note: This entry originally took place on November 7.
Welcome to Philadelphia!
Here's a parking lot!
As I have no sense of Philadelphia's geography and only had a google map print-out to guide me as I got off the Bolt Bus (which I highly recommend taking), I had no idea where I was. At 10 p.m. on a Friday night, the 30th Street Station felt like it was at the edge of civilization, where the roads were wide, clean (coming from the perspective of a New Yorker, at least), and alarmingly quiet. People walked by every now and then, but their presence felt out of place. I waited on a bench in the 30th Street subway station for Alex to rescue me...and help me carry my bags.
As always, Alex was in top notch recuing form—he took me straight to famed gelateria Capogiro for my first bite of awesomeness during my weekend in Philly. Unlike 30th Street, Capogiro was crowded, more specifically, crowded with young people. People younger than me. I forgot that Philadelphia was full of universities and thus students who like to do things on Friday nights, like eat gelato.
I felt...old. And I'm only 23. It'll only get worst after this.
So, back to gelato. There aren't any places like Capogiro in New York City for god knows what reason. Do we have too much other good stuff, meaning that we have to sacrifice in the "frozen desserts" department? Poop that. Washington D.C. has Dolcezza; Philly has Capogiro; NYC has Il Laboratorio del Gelato, Grom, and L'Arte del Gelato, none of which is really comparable to Dolcezza or Capogiro in terms of flavor creativity and diversity. L'Arte del Gelato is my favorite in the city, but I don't think they're going to ever make Heirloom Apple Cider with Clove Sorbetto. (On that note, I tried a sample of that flavor; it was quite nice, but I wouldn't want to eat a whole cup of it.)
I ordered a small cup of pistachio and pumpkin. Pistachio is a given; the only question I have to ask myself is, "What flavor will I get in addition to pistachio?"—easy to answer since I heeded the recommendation for pumpkin.
Pumpkin was not of the autumnal, pumpkin spice sort, but just pure squashiness. Alex pointed out that it had a buttery, toffee flavor as well. Definitely one of the most unique pumpkin flavors I had, although a little smidgen of nutmeg or cinnamon and the like wouldn't have hurt. The first few bites of pistachio were blissful, until I realized it wasn't completely smooth and the flavor, while purely pistachio, didn't sustain itself for very long. Keep in mind that I'm unfairly using impossibly high standards of my favorite, buttery, warm pistachio-bullet-to-your-face gelato in Italy based on memories that have festered in my mind for over a year. What could live up to that? Nothin'. Capogiro's pistachio gelato is very good, but I feel like it could be better. Not that I have any idea how to make it better.
Alex got a cup of pear sorbet and chocolate gelato. Some variation of chocolate, at least. I remember the pear much better than the chocolate; it was like biting into a fresh, juicy pear—especially with those granular pear bits in every bite—with less chewing required.
We turned in early that night back at Alex's house-like apartment, which is shared between five people (helloooo, cheap-ass rent!). Or rather, he turned in early and I stayed on the Internet for a few hours before drifting off to sleep on the futon to the melodious sounds of the seemingly neverending scratchings and shuffings of the rabbit in his cage across the living room. I find rabbits adorable...except when they're doing that.
Address
117 S 20th St
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Another location at:
119 S 13th St
Philadelphia, PA 19107
Posted by roboppy at 12:29 AM
Comments (29)
I'm 23 as well, it's the age to be!
It's also much better if your boyfriend is 5 years older, than you as you can ask helpful questions about what life was like in the 1800's. Great for the ego and it NEVER gets old.
Posted by: Gillian at November 21, 2008 5:46 AM [#]
alas i am not 23 but hovering over the quarter century mark... so philadelphia huh? hope there was a cheesesteak in your future :)
Posted by: chocolatesuze at November 21, 2008 6:21 AM [#]
Hooray- a Philly post!
If you really want to feel like you're on the outskirts of civilization, try coming into the Philadelphia International Airport sometime. A veritable wasteland awaits you.
Oh, weird- I think I've seen the woman behind Alex in your photo before. Small town!
Not sure how current your posting is but make sure to have pork sandwiches at the Reading Terminal market. Dinic's is certainly good and everyone goes there but my favorite is Salumeria - get it with greens...New York just doesn't have pork sandwiches the way that Philly does.
Posted by: Mike at November 21, 2008 9:45 AM [#]
Sammy: It's a weird age when..we're not that old, or young. Still closer to 20 than 30. By a bit. ;_;
Gillian: HAHA, I'd definitely do that if my bf were that much older. And now all the 28+ guys back away slowly..
Suze: Oh my god I DIDN'T HAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR A CHEESE STEAK but next time, I swear. This was my "warm up" weekend.
yoko: Wastelands! My favorite!
Maybe you'll see Alex roaming around Philly next. :D
Mike: I've started putting notes in the beginning of my entries to tell you when they took place. This entry is from two weeks ago, unfortunately. :( I wanted Dinic's but was too full. You'll see why in the next entry, ha ha. Next time I'm definitely getting a pork sandwich!
Ah Capogiro! I spent a lot of money on several cups of gelato there in 2004. They had a blood orange gelato, a vodka meyer lemon sorbet, and honey-goat cheese gelato. Glad to hear they are still as good as ever.
Posted by: Mila at November 21, 2008 10:19 AM [#]
You know, I feel that way, too. I'm somewhere, in walks a group of teens, I just stare at them (with no valid reason), then I realize that now I'm older than all of them. And I'm almost 21.
That sounds really good. All of it. And it's interesting how the pumpkin gelato isn't really pie flavored, but more "pure". But the pear sorbet, that was a wonderful description.
Glad you got to try the pumpkin =D I can see what you mean about the spices, but when my sister tried it she paired it with cinnamon gelato, so we wouldn't have noticed what you did as much, I think ^_^ It's a really good combination
Posted by: Nathalie at November 21, 2008 11:52 AM [#]
Mmmm pear sorbet...I read the whole post...and what do I remember? Pear sorbet. I can actually imagine it melting in mouth in a divine peary-ness.
Haha. Divine pearyness.
Sounds like the god of gelato and sorbet.:)
Posted by: Kate at November 21, 2008 12:14 PM [#]
I used to go to an awful school nearby before transferring to NYU, and I also was excited to try Capogiro. It was pretty good: sweet potato and tahini. I recommend Bassett's, but I'm sure you're three steps ahead of me:D
Posted by: Liz at November 21, 2008 12:50 PM [#]
I put the gelato I had at Capogiro on par with the gelato I had in Italy and France. Their pine nut was extraordinary, as was the cinnamon. My friend is a Philly food blogger, and it's one of the places she insisted on going. I would *almost* say that it's the second best iced dessert variety thing I've ever had, after lavender at Berthillon.
I was about to comment on the flavor marked "Pear Wild Turkey" and how I couldn't fathom a flavor such as that and then I realized it's not wild turkey the bird but wild turkey the bourbon.
Me stoopid.
Posted by: Amy at November 21, 2008 3:05 PM [#]
Mila: HONEY GOAT CHEEESE? That sounds awesome.
Julie: I really liked Arlecchino in Phoenix. That seems to be the most Capogiro-esque place over there? But more traditional, perhaps.
Christina: ALMOST 21...people called me a baby back then. Haha. :P
Nathalie: Oo, that's a great idea! Pumpkin and cinnamon...maybe next time.
Kate: I keep forgetting how good pears are. Normal, not gelato-form pears. I don't eat enough fruit. :(
Liz: AHH WUT I NEED THOSE FLAVORS. And yes, I went to Bassett's! That'll be in..the next-next entry.
Gina: Pine nut! Okay, I need to try that too. I think I'd always go to Capogiro on every trip to Philly. Now if only I could get Berthillon's lavender...
Amy: Haha, I've had those moments of confusion as well. I think I'd rather try turkey-flavored gelato than bourbon-flavored. Even though they'd both taste gross.
Sarah: I can't wait to experience these magical powers when I'm 28!
I'm the same age as you Robyn and the other day I had a serious old person moment. I went to the mall at around 5:30 after work, and the mall was crowded with teenage boys "leaning against things", and the stores were crawling with teenage girls shopping in big groups. The final blow was when I went to a store I figured was targeted towards my demographic (it wasn't expensive, but not as cheap as say Old Navy or H&M) and there they were teenagers shopping for high school semi formal dresses.
Posted by: Angeline at November 21, 2008 7:38 PM [#]
You think feel old?? Get this: while I am not currently dating or actively looking for someone to start a serious relationship with... my parents are still asking me when I'm going to get married and give them a grandchild.
By the by -- I'm only going to be 25 in January.
My ex used to study at the Philly campus of the Art Institute, so I've spent a lot of time there... and yes, you're right in saying that it lacks the grittiness of NYC. And while some may say that I'm just bitter because of a bad break up, I have to say that the brusque nature of NYC makes it that much more special.
I know, I know. I'm rambling. I think I'll end things here before I embarrass myself further. :)
- S
PS: Happy early Thanksgiving!
Jessica: It's alcoholic pear! ...nom?
Marie: I think I had a tastykake once. Yes, scary sweet.
Steph: I am so glad my parents don't do that. Or I WOULDN'T LOVE THEM.
I'm a fan of NYC as well. ..But..Philly = cheaper! I guess most of the rest of the country falls into that category. I like NYC for the diversity. :)
HAPPY T-DAY TO YOU TOO!
Kim: I whine like a baby! Go mee!
Jesse: If the eats are good in Oxford, you make a tempting offer. And I can stuff Little Manatee in my bag!
My current favorite place to eat in Philly is Honey's Sit and Eat http://www.foodaphilia.com/2007/01/honeys-sit-n-eat-new-hours-good.html .
Tiffin is one of the best Indian restaurants I've tried (comparing against many in NYC), but newbie Ekta has been making all the foodies go nuts http://www.philadelphiaweekly.com/articles/17949/food--restaurant-review . If you do end up going to Tiffin, try their Kulfi.
If you are craving more dessert check out Naked Chocolate http://nakedchocolatecafe.com/ .
Sodas at Franklin Fountain http://www.franklinfountain.com/ are amazing. My two favorites are Ladies' Choice and the Japanese Thirst Killer. I've heard they have a winter menu that I haven't gotten a chance to check out yet.
I actually prefer Sabrina's to Morning Glory http://sabrinascafe.com/ . The lines tho... the lines are way too long!
I recommend the Spicy Tuna Taretare @ Vic http://www.yelp.com/biz/vic-sushi-bar-philadelphia .
For coffee check out La Colombe Torrefaction 130 S 19th St Philadelphia, PA 19103 and Ray's Cafe & Tea House http://www.rayscafe.com/ ... their ice coffee is cold brewed for 24 hours. Because it's cold brewed, it's amazingly strong w/o being bitter.
Hope this helps.
PS being old just means you've gotten to eat more food :D
So colourful! *coughtBritishUcough* I like the entirely ornamental giant chunks of fruit on top as well. I wonder if they'd give it to you if you asked for it. Hmm.
Posted by: SuperChomp at December 7, 2008 4:40 PM [#]
I had a pumpkin/pecan gelato combo at the 13th & Sansom location after the Phillies World Series victory parade. I don't know if it was the excitement of the day, but I thought that the pumpkin gelato was indeed spicy and flavorful. Perhaps it was more "in season" in October than in January? At any rate, glad you enjoyed your visit. Glad to know we have something special with Capogiro.
Posted by: Library Chick at January 23, 2009 9:19 PM [#]
Capogiro is by far the worst gelato I've ever had! I dont know if it was just the day I went in, but I will not be going back. It wasn't creamy enough and I had ice stuck in it, something I have certainly never seen before. Maybe it's because I grew up on homemade gelato. I really dont know. But if your looking for REAL gelato in Philadelphia, try Bon Bon on 2nd and Market, they also have a large selection of pasteries that are AMAZING! Try the Nutella or Triamisu flavors, they're out of this world! And the gelato spots she mentioned in NYC are something I dont recommend either. Best gelato in NYC is from the street vendors in Little Italy.
Posted by: princessa at November 3, 2009 2:08 PM [#]
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Oh my... I'm 23 as well and feel your pain. *hugs*
This post tugged my insecure/old heartstrings so much that I came out from lurking.
Mmmm pumpkin gelato? Makes me want a pumpkin pie... all to myself.
Posted by: Sammy at November 21, 2008 3:14 AM [#]